Tankmates to avoid include very large or aggressive fish, both of which may harass or bully the smaller Mollies to the point where a stress-related disease kills them. There are plenty of examples of unsuitable tankmates for Balloon Mollies in the cichlid group of fish, especially Convict cichlids. That said, Angelfish , which are also members of the cichlid family, do generally get along fine with Mollies. Most species of invertebrates, such as shrimp and snails, get along fine with Balloon Mollies, and there are lots of different species and varieties to consider.
Mollies are generally healthy, robust fish, although they can be susceptible to a few common tropical freshwater fish diseases. As with any fish species, poor water quality is a major cause of sickness and disease. So, you must install a good-quality mechanical and biological filtration system, as well as carrying out weekly partial water changes to keep the water clean.
Check the water quality each week with a test kit. Ideally, the levels of ammonia and nitrite should be zero, and the level of nitrate should be as low as possible, preferably not more than 20ppm. Shimmies are a condition that is also known as Molly disease, although it commonly affects other species of livebearers too.
Also, there are some other peculiar behavioral or postural traits that are associated with the condition, including labored or heavy breathing, clamped fins, and head shaking. Shimmies is not a disease as such, but rather a symptom, indicating that a fish no longer has control of its nerves and muscles. The condition occurs when fish are severely stressed, usually due to environmental problems. In Mollies, the usual trigger for shimmies is when the fish are kept in aquarium water that is too soft or acidic.
Copper poisoning has also been found to cause shimmies. There is no treatment for shimmies. However, once the environmental conditions have improved, the fish generally recover without any problems. So, carry out a small number of water changes over the course of a few days or even a week.
Ich is a very common disease of tropical and coldwater fish that is caused by a protozoan parasite called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. The parasite is often present in the aquarium but only attacks sickly fish or those that are weakened by stress. Because the parasites are present in the tank already, there is little point in quarantining affected fish. To treat the problem, you can use a combination of water temperature increase and medication.
Increase the temperature in the tank to between 78 0 and 80 0 Fahrenheit for a period of four days. Simultaneously, add a proprietary Ich treatment to the tank. You can buy treatments over-the-counter at all good fish stores. Velvet is another common condition that affects tropical freshwater fish and is similar in nature to Ich.
Like Ich, Velvet disease usually manifests itself when fish are stressed due to poor water quality, temperature changes, or stress caused by transportation. Mollies affected by Velvet disease will be observed flicking their bodies against objects in the aquarium, will appear lethargic, lose weight, clamp their fins close to their bodies, and develop a rust-colored or yellow film on the skin.
Also, increasing the water temperature to 82 0 Fahrenheit will accelerate the life cycle of the parasite, and, in conjunction with the appropriate medication, will help to kill off the infestation. Also, adding one to three level teaspoons of salt per gallon of water can cause the fish to increase mucus production, which will deter the parasites, as well as reducing the osmotic stress in the water.
The key to preventing outbreaks of common Balloon Molly fish diseases is to keep the tank clean and the water quality pristine. Whenever you buy new Balloon Mollies to add to your collection, be sure to keep them in a quarantine tank for at least a fortnight before introducing them to your display fish tank. That way, if any signs of disease are observed, the Mollies can be treated in isolation, rather than risking introducing disease to the rest of your fish.
Also, new live plants and tank decorations should be thoroughly washed to remove dirt and parasites before being added to your main tank. And I have two females do I put them both in the second tank? Some aquarium fish like guppies and mollies drop their fry alive and fully formed. Others lay eggs which subsequently get fertilized externally and go through several growth stages.
What species is the fish in question? If the fish are live bearing, you should know that moving them could cause premature delivery. Instead of moving the females, please consider floating a large raft of hornwort. This will protect the fry while mom goes about her business. My other fish is a dalmation female fish. But I have a sucker filter and a don't have a floater raft. And I have 3 other fish in my first tank should I still move my fish??
Live bearing females often drop their fry at night. Without some protective floating plants they usually get eaten before you know they were born. Powerful filters also suck up newborn fry, so you may want to cover the intake tube with a sponge filter. Moving the female to a different aquarium can produce enough stress to cause premature delivery.
In this case, the fry still have much of their yolk sac and are unable to swim. They usually fall to the substrate and perish. She gave birth already n the buy r alive i don't know y.. I walked up today n there was a die bby fish I leave to work wen I cumin back there's like 5 more died can anyone help n tell me y the baby fishs r dieing I got the n a 3 breeding net I need help asap b 4 they all die I don't have baby food what can I give them to eat for now.
Either the fry were delivered prematurely, or the aquarium has a water quality issue. Both situations are discussed in previous postings. I had like 20 fry now I got like 10 ink I been doing that to the food what I, a do is buy a 10g tank with lots of plants thanks for the help. My molly had babies too, instead of stressing her out and moving her, i just caught the fry, easier said than done sometimes, and i saved about 19, im sure some got eaten by the others but 19 fry is enough for me.
I got a seperation tank that just sticks to the side of the tank. For the first few days they rested on the bottom, swimming is hard for babies, but so far none have died, they are growing and swimming around more, actually a week later and im still finding babies in the main tank. I have lots of plants and a huge wooden decoration for them to hide also they seem to dig themselves under the rocks to protect themselves.
I feed them in small amounts times a day, my daughter over fed them once and it seemed the left ofter food seemed to grow mold on the side so i gently cleaned that off and have taken over feeding them. However i find now when i feed the fry my other fish start nipping at the netting to get at it so i give them a very small amount as well to keep them away so the fry eat in peace. The pregnant molly still seems to be pregnant so I will not be surprised if i wake up to another batch of fry in the next few weeks, but we'll have to see as from what I understand they may just appear that way.
I am nowhere near a fish expert im just giving my experiences and what i have done, and so far no fry have died so it seems to be working My balloon Mollie is pregnant but my parents don't want me to breed fish what should I do?
They want me to flush it! If your parents are adamant about destroying the fish rather than allowing her to give birth, I'd rehome her immediately. If you can't find a friend who will take her, post her on Craigslist as "Free to good home.
You might even try locally-owned pet shops to see if they will take her as a donation, even if she's not under warranty. If you explain the situation, they might help you out. M y A quarium C lub. By Kelly , 10 years ago on Tropical Fish. Best wishes. Should I move her into a separate tank? Thanks and God Bless, Jo Ann. These are some behavioral signs that she might be ready to give birth. It might be time to isolate the molly when you see these 3 behavioral signs that she is ready to give birth.
A question that many are asking is if you should separate pregnant mollies. The answer will depend on one thing. One thing to remember is that newborn fries are small enough for mollies and other fish to eat. They think that this is food, because of the size of the fry. Without enough hideouts, the fry will not survive in a large tank with lots of fish. She will eat her own babies. Some people are making use of a breeder net. This is where the fry is getting separated from other fish, but they are still in one aquarium.
After this period, you can place the fries in the main tank. The fries are now too large to be eaten by the other fish. This is one of the reasons why many people are breeding with mollies.
But, there are a couple of things you can do to ensure that your pregnant molly is more relaxed. Remember that a stressful pregnant molly can abort the fries. They are always looking for some darker, quiet hiding spaces. Away from the other fish.
The more hideouts you have in the tank, the better. The pregnant mollies can feel more comfortable and relaxed if the water is warmer than normal. We know that the normal temperature for mollies is between degrees Fahrenheit. So, just two or three degrees higher will be enough for the pregnant mollie to relax more. Marina Thermometer. The gestation period of a molly fish is around 60 days from being fertilized to giving birth. Something interesting that not many know are female mollies can store sperm for months and may fertilize eggs as often as every 30 days, even when no male is present in the tank.
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